DUMB STUFF People Do to Their Cars

Dumb Stuff #1 – Driving with your brake warning light on for extended periods. A “brake light on” indicates - Loss of Hydraulic Pressure or Low Brake Fluid Level. It's pure lunacy to think that you'll live forever ignoring this critical system of your car.

Dumb Stuff #2 – Engaging the starter while the engine is running. If you change drivers, put the vehicle in park and turn off the engine. If the car is left running, the natural tendency is to start the car. This can lead to a loud grinding noise and damage your starter drive and flywheel. All starters have some “built-in” protection to prevent damage if the starter is accidentally engaged with the engine running. However, if you make this mistake too often, you’re set for a major repair job. 

Dumb Stuff #3 – Shifting into Drive while the vehicle is still moving in Reverse on automatic transmissions. Overlapping of Gears May Lead to Premature Transmission Failure. Use a Transmission Cooler when Towing. Repair Transmission Leaks Immediately. Do not Ride the Clutch on Cars with Standard Transmissions.

Dumb Stuff #4 - Hitting the curbs or tire stops when parking. This is the #1 cause of front-end damage to the body and steering system components. Most customers feel they have to hit the curb to ensure their vehicle is properly parked. 

Dumb Stuff #5 – Attempting to make the next exit off the highway while the engine is running hot. If your car runs hot – pull over immediately and let it cool down. Continued driving may cause blown head gaskets. It's better to use your cell phone and call for help than destroy your engine. If no one is available to help your, keep pulling over and driving a little until you reach help. Accepting help from strangers may not be a good idea.  

 Dumb Stuff #6 – Cranking the engine continuously - even though the engine fail to start. If your engine does not start, crank the engine in 3 - 5 seconds intervals followed by a 5-7 second cool down. Prolonged grinding on the starter can cause the starter to overheat, battery to explode, and battery cables to melt - leading to an under hood fire.

Dumb Stuff #7 – Failure to keep a close check of your oil level. Taping or knocking sounds from the engine while driving should be checked immediately – pull over and call for help to prevent engine damage.

Dumb Stuff #8 – Continuously driving with warped rotors. If you car shakes violently when the brakes are applied, you have warped rotors. Defective rotors should be “turned” or replaced to prevent damaging suspension components.

Dumb Stuff #9 – Failure to follow routine oil and filter change.

Dumb Stuff #10 – Ignoring coolant and oil leaks from your engine. This could be fatal to your car and wallet. Repeat after me - Coolant is Green or Orange, Transmission Fluid is Red, Used Engine Oil is Black, Brake Fluid is Clear with Distinct Odor, and Power Steering Fluid is Clear. Like a crying baby, all leaks need immediate attention!

Dumb Stuff #11 – Failure to keep tires properly inflated. Too little air can cause wandering, excessive tire wear, burning excessive fuel and your tire to run flat. Too much can lead to 'blow out." Balance tires if you feel steering wheel shimmy or shaking. Replace worn or leaky shock absorbers and struts – excessive bouncing is a sure sign of failure. 

Dumb Stuff #12 – Neglecting to change your air filter, fuel filter, breather element and PCV valve at regular intervals. Keep fuel tank full during winter months to prevent condensation and fuel tank rusting. 

Dumb Stuff #13 – Ignoring sounds coming from your brakes. If you hear a scrapping sound coming from your brakes after 35,000 miles or more, this may be the wear indicator alerting you of the need for new brakes. Get your brakes checked immediately before rotor damage occurs. Grinding noise indicates metal-to-metal contact and is a sure sign of brake damage. You’ll need new rotors along with brake pads and/or brake shoes if you hear this sound. Cheap brake pads may occasionally produce a squealing noise when the brakes are applied. This may be bothersome for drivers, but this sound is a characteristic of low budget brake pads ($9.95 specials - as compared to the $24.95 lifetime brands), or oil or grease on the liners.

Dumb Stuff #14 – Never flushing your cooling system or replacing the antifreeze. Adding only water to the cooling system is not recommended. Your coolant contains rust inhibitors, water pump lubricants, antifreeze chemicals, and other ingredients to protect your radiator, block, seals, and hoses. Always check the condition of the belts and hoses when servicing the cooling system.

Dumb Stuff #15 – Failure to check your coolant level. Check engine coolant only when the engine is cold. Do not remove the pressure cap on a hot engine – the hot water and steam can scald you.

Dumb Stuff #16 - Leaning over an engine with a necktie, long hair, or dangling chains. These items can get caught in the fan or rotating belts. Remember to remove all jewelry and watches when working on a vehicle – this can cause electrical shorts and sparks and heat-up to glowing red causing severe injury. 

Dumb Stuff #17 – Driving with your “Check Engine” light on. This indicates a problem with your computerized engine control system and can damage your catalytic converter. 

Dumb Stuff #18 – Not knowing the location of your jack, spare tire, and tire tools. Before you have a flat, every vehicle owner should practice changing a tire using the procedures found in the owner’s manual. 

Dumb Stuff #19 - Attempting to Service an A/C System Without Proper Training. Freon can burn your skin and cause “frost bite.” Always wear goggles and rubber gloves to protect your eyes and hands. Do not weld around A/C lines. Do not carry freon inside your vehicle – ultraviolet rays from the sun can cause the pressurized can to explode. Use prescribed service tools and equipment to prevent injury, component damage, or contaminating the atmosphere.. 

Dumb Stuff #20 – Driving your vehicle while it is “pulling to one side.”A strong pull on the steering wheel while driving could indicate a bent or worn steering component, low tire pressure, worn wheel bearings, or alignment problems. Get this checked immediately. 

Be Careful and Stay Safe!

Click on the Banner to Make Your Car Last Forever - SMART STUFF!

DUMB STUFF IS PRESENTED IN A COMICAL WAY TO EMPHASIZE THE IMPORTANCE OF PROPER MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE PROCEDURES – THANK YOU!

How to Remove a Stuck CV Axle Shaft with a Tie-Down Strap and Pry Bar – It Really Works

Okay, I know this sounds crazy but a 10^th grade student brought a tie-down strap to my automotive class to remove a stuck CV axle shaft on his 2001 Kia. Before trying this weird idea, one student decided to call the local parts store to “get the right tool for the job:” a CV axle puller. Great idea! After spending $31 for this tool, the darn thing did not work. The tool was not thin enough to get behind the axle to attach a slide hammer.

After wasting a whole class period with the "right tool,” I decided to go with a student's weird tie-down strap idea. How do you wrap a tie-down strap around the back of a CV axle shaft?  

First, separate the shaft at the back boot (not required, but it gives you extra room to work).

Second, use the flat surface of the strap to lie along the back of the axle, creating an “L-shaped” layer around the shaft extension. This keeps the strap from slipping off the shaft.

Spool the yellow flat of the tie-strap around the back sides of the shaft extension – creating an "L-shaped" layer that must overlap or cross at least once for pulling…

Third, connect one end of the strap to something solid on the vehicle; and connect the other end so that the strap pulls in the direction of axle removal (creating a 90 degree pull angle).  

Fourth, tighten the ratchet handle on the strap, and apply constant pressure on the joint.

Fifth, tell everybody to get out of the way, because this force can create a projectile if the axle suddenly release.  

Of course, after applying pressure to the strap, nothing happened. Nothing!

That’s when I went underneath the car with a pry bar and gave the axle shaft end an upward jerking pry because the straps was pulling downward at an angle to prevent the strap from slipping off the shaft. After a couple seconds of rocking the shaft – BAM! The shaft “broke free” and automatic transmission fluid poured out. The old tie-strap idea worked without any damage to the transmission and it did not cost us a dime. The only bad thing about this idea was that I was splattered in automatic transmission fluid. So much for being a professional (http://bit.ly/IdEaCZ  click here for a laugh)!

The morale of this story:  listen to your students, their ideas sometime work.

Amazing Students with Weird Ideas That Work!